RAF SIMONS - Shoes: Astro "Pocket" Shoes

Here are some comparison photos of a fake, and an authentic pair of Raf Simons' 'Astro' pocket sneakers. The real ones are in high demand and retail for around $725. They come in several colors of leather. Below is the black patent leather version. With the authentic kicks going for such high prices the fakes might be lookin' pretty good to you, but don't give in. Pictures can be deceiving. If you study them carefully it quickly becomes apparent that the quality of the fakes is crap. For those who appreciate quality and design, it's worth hunting for the real thing.

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In the above profile view you can see some of the minor differences in the lines of the stitching on the side. Also note the difference in shape as it wraps around the back. You can see the difference in the toe of the sole too.

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The rubber toe cap of the fake has a flatter edge, whereas the authentic pair has a more rounded profile.

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Example (click to enlarge):

When looking down on the shoes it is apparent that the real shoes have a more pointed shape, in comparison the the more rounded toe of the fakes. And, the stitching at the base of the tongue is lower on the authentic pair.

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The zipper on the back of the pocket should be silver, not golden. If you enlarge the image above you can also see the difference in the zipper toggle. However, not all of the fakes have gold zippers. Some do have silver ones.

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The above example shoes how many of the fake straps vary from the authentic ones. The fakes are slightly wider with a narrower fabric edge. It also appears that the hi-top part of this fake is straight, instead of at an angle like the real ones.

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Some of the fake versions of these shoes are made without the double tongue (but be aware that there are better fakes that have the double tongue). The authentic 'Astro' shoes have two tongues that attach together with a rectangular patch of Velcro at the top. The fake above is stitched wrong, with a half-inch between the stitching and the edge of the tongue. The fakes I've seen that do have the double tongue have more rounded corners on the outer tongue than the relatively squared corners of the authentic shoes.

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Example (click to enlarge):

Here is an example of what the inside of the tongue should look like. Below that is a photo of the embossed "Raf Simons" logo that should be stamped on the insole of the shoe.

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Lastly, check the box. If the box is fake, chances are the shoes are fake too. The Raf Simons box should be a dark gray color made out of a flat cardboard (not corrugated). It should have a small glossy black logo on each end, and it should be blank on the top, bottom and other two sides.

RICK OWENS - Shoes: ss08 Creatch Hi-Tops

On the 'most wanted' list of many guys this year are these leather hi-tops from Rick Owens' spring/summer 2008 collection. However, the $1,200+ price tag can be a little hard on the wallet, so, a lot of guys turn to eBay and other online sources in search of a bargain. Because Rick Owens is more of a niche label, unknown to the average Joe on the street, people often assume it isn't faked. Well, there are knock-offs of just about every label out there, and the more underground the label, the more money the counterfeiters can get for the fakes, simply because people assume they're real.

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They don't look bad at a glance but the fakes are, of course, poor quality and not worth the $200-600 they sell for. The real ones should last you a lifetime. In this first photo you can see the difference in the sole, the shape of the toe, and the shape and distance between the stripes. Also, note that the authentic shoe has thinner laces.

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Here is a close-up of the toe. You can see how the rubber part of the sole is molded differently. The cap of the toe on the fake recedes farther back than the authentic one.

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This detail shot of the side illustrates the difference in the quality of the stitching. Note how some of the fake's stitches are different sizes, and how they don't follow the curve of the leather very well. You can also see how the stitched rectangle is more squared and shifted on the fake shoe. There are also variances in the shape and proportions of the leather pieces throughout the shoe.

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The authentic kicks have a silver zipper vs. this fakes' copper colored zipper. The zipper itself is also a different shape. The real one is a bit longer and skinnier. The size should be printed on the leather flap inside the zipper (in this case they are a euro size 42).

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There are different varieties of fakes out there, the one above does have a silver zipper but it doesn't have the correct toggle. The fakes tend to use cheap hardware (such as generic zippers). Sometimes they mold their own but it is usually a very poor casting. In this comparison you can see the difference in the shape of the toggle better.

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Example (click to enlarge):
This is the patch on the back side of the tongue. Compare the width of the patch to the black tab above it in the first set. The real tab is wider than the patch. However, some fakes are correctly proportioned, as demonstrated in the second set. In both examples the stitching across the black tab varies from the original.

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Last, but not least, the insole. Notice a difference? Yeah, you guessed it, they didn't bother to stamp the Rick Owens logo in these fakes, which makes it a little easier to export them without alerting customs agents. The real ones also have a serrated edge along part of the insole.

As with all knock-offs remember that the fakes can vary, and there may be more than one factory/company producing the knock-offs. As a result some fakes may look more real than others. Use your best judgment and follow my 'hunting basics.'

GUCCI - Shirts: labels

Gucci is one of the most commonly faked labels, everything from socks to suits has been counterfeit. A lot of the Gucci fakes are very poorly done and obviously fake. Gucci is one of those mega labels that sustains a strong consumer base interested solely in the logo (see also Louis Vuitton and Chanel). The hip-hop culture of the 1980's embraced blatant fakes as a sort of satire. For many it was about a parody of the wealthy who chose to flaunt their designer logos, and it was about challenging their affluence, or at least how the rich portrayed it. It was a way of demystifying the appeal of two interlocking G's or C's, or an 'LV.' It was about showing the logo for what it is; a marketing tool, used invoke specific imagery and a sense of membership. Perhaps a bit ironically, the mainstream hip-hop culture of today has bought into the very cache it was mocking twenty years ago.

There are many varieties of Gucci fakes, some are obviously fake, and some are copied quite well. If you buy Gucci online from a secondary source such as eBay, pay close attention to my tips in the 'Hunting Basics' section of this blog.

Over the years Gucci labels have changed. When Tom Ford was the head designer the labels and font were larger (as seen in the first example below). I think it was in 2005 that they changed the shirt labels from the rectangular shape to the longer and skinnier shape with smaller text (as seen in the fourth comparison example below).

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In the above comparison you can see the difference in the size of the lettering, both on the label and on the size tag. The difference is subtle, which is why it's important to look closely at the pictures when you're buying online. This is a Tom Ford-era tag, which is taller than the current tags.

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The two examples above are rather obvious fakes. The first one is proportioned totally wrong, the Gucci text is wrong, and the size tag is wrong. In the second example the tag is gold, and there are no gold Gucci tags. Unless we're dealing with vintage Gucci, the label should be white text on a black label. The marked size (in this example 'M') should not be on the same label, it should be on a separate piece of material either sewn to the label or elsewhere on the shirt depending on when style shirt it is.

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In the above example the fake tag is missing the 'Made in Italy' text.

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These examples are all of pretty decent fake labels. You have to click the pictures to enlarge them to see the variances in the text. The text in both of the above fakes is too bold, and the stitches don't form smooth rounded letters. Also note that the spacing between the 'Made in Italy' and the 'Gucci' text is greater in the authentic label.

RAF SIMONS - Accessories: Eastpak Bags

Well, it only took about a week and a half after the Raf Simons x Eastpak collaboration launched for the fakes to start appearing. This one surprised me, though I guess I should have expected it. The collaboration looks pretty cool, a line of futuristic, over-sized backpacks/rucksacks (as seen in Raf Simons' ss08 'Material World' runway show). Here's the official link: http://87.106.137.70/rafsimons/

There are several different styles /colorways but this is the first one I've seen faked, though I'm sure there will be more to come.

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At first glance they appear to be quite similar, but there are several differences in the way they are constructed.

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And of course, as always, the quality of the fake's stitching and seams is inferior. Note the sloppy edges of the colored straps.

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Lastly, and probably the easiest difference to spot, is the logo patch. As you can see, the fake bag is missing the Eastpak logo. The fake 'Raf Simons' text is also more elongated/taller than the real logo.

GUCCI - Shoes: Tennis Shoes

This white leather sneaker is one of Gucci's most popular styles, and naturally, one of the most often faked. Below are several real vs. fake comparison photos of this style shoe. eBay is flooded with the fake versions so pay close attention to the details. Keep in mind that there are many different fake versions of this style out there so make sure ALL of the details match the authentic examples because different fakes have different errors in the styling.

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Above are two different comparison photos, with two different fakes. The top fake is a bit more accurate than the bottom one, but they're both easy to distinguish as fake. The bottom fake is missing some stitching/padding on the side and has a different sole. However both of these fakes have many things wrong with them. The fake eyelets are metal instead of the white painted metal as seen on the authentic pair. The red and green stripe should not have any stitching on it and both of these fake examples have white stitching. This red and green stripe should be made out of woven nylon. The fake stripes tend to be wider than the authentic one..

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The back of the heel on these Gucci shoes comes up quite high, and most of the fakes out there don't come up as far. Above are two different fake variations.

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The back of the heel is covered in a green alligator/crocodile embossed leather. In the fake example above the patch is wider and the material features a different scale pattern and coloring than the original. Also note that the authentic version is stitched around the rubber sole and this fake is not. Some fakes are stitched around the sole but with much larger stitches (like one stitch for every three on the authentic pair).

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The inside of these shoes is made of white leather (not brown like the above fake) and there is an embossed 'GUCCI made in italy' logo inside. In this style shoe the logo is only embossed and not printed.

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Here is another knock-off variation of the logo. Also note the difference in the size of the lettering and the spacing.

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A lot of these fakes can also be spotted by the shoe bags that are often included in the auctions. The authentic shoe comes with a dark satin brown GG print shoe bag.

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Also get to know what an authentic Gucci shoe box looks like. There are many fake examples on eBay (one of which is pictured above). The real box has slightly raised metallic lettering that runs parallel with the shorter side of the box. However, keep in mind that just because a box or a shoe bag may be real, it never guarantees that the shoes are also real. Always carefully inspect the pictures of the actual product, not just the boxes, tags, etc.

DIOR HOMME - Accessories: Ties

I have received several requests from readers of this blog for information on Dior Homme neckties. Ties are easy to fake and a bit hard to authenticate. The reason being that they are so simple. Many of the online auctions for Dior Homme ties have small blurry pictures with little detail. Of course, actually feeling the fabric and seeing the stitching in person is the best way to authenticate a tie, but there are some things you can watch out for. The first step is to check out the seller. Look at the other items he's selling and skim his feedback and look at the items he's sold. Even if you can't tell if the tie is fake he may have sold some other knockoff that is obviously fake (which would suggest, though not prove, that the tie is fake).

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The fake above looks like it is made out of an old couch. When buying Dior Homme online, keep the designer's aesthetic in mind. If it looks like a thoughtless 80's Christmas gift you received from your aunt, do you really want it?

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Speaking of the Dior Homme aesthetic; this beauty has a large gray "CD" logo printed on the front of the tie. In-your-face logos are not the brand's style (the women's line is another story). At first glance this tie looks like it may be an older piece from Christian Dior, circa their creatively-starved 70's and 80's years. However this gem has a fake Dior Homme label on it and was listed as a Dior Homme piece. The lining has a fake version of the "Dior" repeating pattern, with the letters spaced too far apart.

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The fabric content tags in Dior Homme ties are located in the fold, on the back of the skinny part of the tie. These tags are always silver with black stitched lettering, and the label is sewn folded in half. Above is an example of a fake fabric content tag. There are several things wrong with it. For one thing, the label is a blackish purple or something, not silver. Second, the lettering is too close together and stitched in white. Lastly, it reads "Made in China." Dior does not produce any clothing or accessories in China. To the best of my knowledge, Dior Homme makes all of its ties in Italy.

In the end, ties are one thing I recommend buying direct from the store. They run around $170 (USD) and the authentic ones don't sell for much less on eBay. If you do choose to bid on one remember to ask for detailed photos if none are provided. Also, feel free to ask the seller where he purchased the tie from and if he guarantees authenticity. Keep in mind that the seller's response in no way guarantees authenticity. But, some sellers will try to warn off informed buyers with a line like "It looks authentic but I can't guarantee it," or "I'm selling it for a friend who says it is authentic."

JOHN GALLIANO - ...or should I say Balliano?

Hot new brand, or really bad fake? You decide.




...and from the makers of Balliano comes (?)alliano. Note the slyly placed drawstring.

DSQUARED - Denim: Logo Labels

Dsquared jeans have a black rectangular fabric tag sewn inside the waistband. The label should be sewn on the wearer's left side of the waistband (the right side if you're looking at the jeans straight-on). These tags are not sewn in the center of the back like many other brands. This tag measures 2.25 inches long and just a hair over half an inch tall. The fake versions of these labels vary a bit in size and shape and are often sewn in the center of the back of the waistband.

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In the example above there are two key distinguishing factors between the real label and the fake label. The first is the stitching around the edges. The stitching should be straight and parallel to the edges of the fabric. As you can see in the fake, the stitching is further from the edge than it is in the authentic label. The second thing to note is the size of the text in relation to the label. In this example the fake text is larger.

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This one is pretty obvious. Not only is the stitching crooked, but the label is cut crooked, the letters are too large, they are located up a little too high, and the label is the wrong proportions (too short). Furthermore, if you look closely you can see that on the fabric content tag of the fake jeans it reads: "Made in Hong Kong." Well, I don't think I have to tell you that authentic Dsquared jeans are not made in Hong Kong.

These fake labels range in quality so keep an eye out.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD - Accessories: Rings

The vast majority of Vivienne Westwood jewelry on eBay is fake. To avoid getting ripped off you need to know what to look for. Below is a real v. fake example of the three-hinged armor ring. This ring is made in two versions, the silver (925 silver) and the gold version (which is gold plated 925 silver). What you should look for is the quality of the casting (edges, detailing, etc) and the quality of the metal.

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Example (click to enlarge):

The fakes can sometimes have a lot of grainy imperfections in the metal, and poorly shaped edges. In the second comparison above you can see the lack of quality in the casting of the orb logo on the fake ring. It looks like it is actually cracked at the base, which may be from a poorly applied 'gold' paint job.

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When shopping online it can help to have a photo of the item (in addition to the ones provided in the auction) from a reputable source so that you can compare any differences. Granted, this is not always easy to get, which is one of the reasons I started this blog.

In the above example you can see that the links of the fake ring are shaped a bit differently. The real ring's links are also stepped, not aligned in a straight line. See what I mean?

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Another difference with this style ring is the hinging mechanism. The fake one has larger ball cap joints, where as the real one has small rounded prongs sticking through the holes.

Remember to always check the seller before buying anything. Look at the feedback and the other items he/she has sold. Designer jewelry rarely gets discounted so if the seller has sold a large amount of a particular style piece it should be a warning sign.

DIOR HOMME - Accessories: Jewelry

A lot of the Dior Homme jewelry that pops up on eBay is fake. One of the best ways to determine authenticity from the photos is by the quality of the lettering on the jewelry. Fake Dior Homme jewelry often has crooked or misaligned lettering on it. Below are a few examples but this information can apply to all pieces.

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The jewelry can often be hard to authenticate because much of it is fairly simple and easy to reproduce. The key (of course) is in the details. Ask the seller for large, clear, close-up pictures so that you can evaluate the details and quality. With the 'three bee' leather rope necklaces above you can see the variation in the engraving of the CD on the bees. In this example the fake CD's are slightly offset to the right. Also note that the lettering is larger than the real one.

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In the example above the D is only partially there and the lettering is crooked. If you enlarge the picture (click on it) you will also be able to see the poor, toy-like quality of the metal and craftsmanship.

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Here are some more details. As with all fakes, the quality is pretty low. Note the uneven thickness of the edges of the star.

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Many pieces of Dior jewelry have this "CD | PARIS" bar. If it does you should note where the clasp is attached. If you look closely in the photo above you will see that the authentic necklace's clasp is attached to the chain side and not the "CD | PARIS" bar side. The fake necklace often have the clasp attached to the end of the bar. So, the authentic ones hook from the chain to the bar, and the fakes often hook from the bar to the chain.